Located under the J tracks on the northern edge of Bed-Stuy, the restaurant channels the bustling and partly Europeanized largest city in the Ivory Coast. More so than any other restaurant hailing from that republic, the menu of Abidjan gives a clear picture of tribal as well as urbanized food there. Unfortunately, the place only makes a shifting fraction of its menu every day--though what's available will make ordering easier, because you don't have to scan and evaluate more than three dozen choices, but only about four. The chicken in peanut sauce is particularly dope, and so are the grilled kidneys and the lamb in palm-oil sauce. Side any of these stews with the mash called foutou or with the manioc stodge known as attieke ("ay-check-ay").
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Chicken in Peanut Stew (left) and Foutou (right) are Ivory Coast fare. Food from the Ivory Coast is one of the city's rarer West African cuisines, with only one place in East Harlem and another in Bushwick (or maybe Bed-Stuy. Depend...