The flagship of the city's Senegalese fleet has moved across the street to fancier digs. Carry out from the window downstairs, or ascend the curving stairway to the glitzy dining room, which doubles as an alcohol-free nightclub and offers spectacular views of 116th Street from its cushy raised booths. Lunchtime, find Wolof standards like mafe (lamb or chicken with rich peanut sauce), cheb (African paella), and yassa (lemony chicken with mustard and caramelized onions). At dinner the menu bows toward France, with scrumptious lamb chops and grilled whole fish heading the menu.
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Given the accelerating gentrification of Harlemwith franchise restaurants swarming the landscape like locustsI've been worrying about West 116th Street, the city's premier West African neighborhood. Following a week-long...