From the amuse-bouche of cod mousse and pickled anchovy arranged like a delicate sculpture to the astonishing peach strudel, we enjoyed one of the best meals of the year at this new project of Scott Conant. Here he expresses a mature culinary visionacentered on the quasi-Teutonic food of Italyas Alto Adigeathat makes LaImpero seem crude by comparison. Each dish on the $72 prix fixe (including four full courses) is a catalog of subtle flavors and gestures, and youall be hard-pressed to choose between, say, the venison carpaccio decorated with apple and juniper or the polenta bombed with snails and porcini.
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