Though Shanghai restaurants get the lion's share of attention, Fuzhou establishments have been multiplying at an equal rate-there are two on this stretch of East Broadway. Order anything with "foo chow sauce" to get dishes braised in hong zao, a red paste of rice-wine lees with a subtle and intriguing flavor. We ordered rabbit done this way, and the dish came larded with pieces of pork to make up for the leanness of the bunny. Sautéed snow-pea shoots dotted with caramelized cloves of garlic was another favorite at our table.
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