This Egyptian fish market allows you to make a whole-fish selection, and then see it borne to the grill or deep fryer-all for a fraction of what you get charged at the Greek joints. French fries, baba ghanoush laced with pickle juice, and the merguez sandwich are also enthusiastically recommended.
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Order a whole fish on a weekday afternoon and Mostafa Khalilwalled behind boxes of pastriesleaves his cash-register pulpit and strides to the front window. He examines the iced display, bending over to check a gill or tw...