An expanded appetizer list featured five eggplant choices alone, ranging from the too-familiar babaganoush ($3) to the more obscure soslu patlican ($3.50)-the Barney-like vegetable cubed and stewed with tomatoes, green chiles, and chunky garlic. The olive-oil ooze was quickly staunched with freshly made pide bread flecked with nigella and sesame seeds. The pide also goes great with the busier-than-usual cacikaa dipping sauce of homemade yogurt dominated by garlic, despite the best efforts of dill and mint. The menu also offered obscure kebabs like calf liver, garlicky and peppery beyti, and the criminal's nemesis, cop shish -chunklets of baby lamb. All were distinguished by moist, tasty meat and plenty of smoke. But don't miss the kebab and yogurt combinations.