The green premises with antique bar and banquettes suggest a bistro, but Belcourt is slightly more. It offers such speculative bistro fare as oil-poached octopus with cardamom-pickled vegetables in an appetizer portion, and an entrée trio of roasted pork belly, sausage, and cheeks. Skip the boudin blanc "hot dog," though, which isn't the world's best idea: a tiny, deathly white sausage deposited on a miniature bun with mustard and kraut. Although the homemade wild pepper chips on the side are fantastic.
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Dip into the 1990 Zagat Guideif you can find a copyand you'll discover that 70 percent of the restaurants that received scores of 26 or 27 for food were dyed-in-the-wool French. The list famously included Lutéce, ...