Nolita is ripe with picturesque Italian joints, but few do the Panini so well as postage-stamp-sized Bread. Bar stools and a few tables fill up quickly as the smell of melting cheese wafts from the kitchen. Ciabatta rolls and baguettes are walked over from nearby Balthazar to be the bricks for a dozen or so different Panini combinations: Sicilian sardines with tomato and Thai pepper mayonnaise smothered between a baguette, and aged Genoa salami with a coating of olive tapenade and Taleggio on fluffy ciabiatta. Sandwiches are served with a small salad, perhaps to relieve some carb-induced guilt. The menu offers other full-sized salads, pastas, classic Italian dishes like eggplant parmigiana, and small dishes like French fries, a gooey zucchini souffle and rich Brie tartines. But stick to the paninis. It's what Bread does best. --Jessica Goodman
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