The vibe is disconcertingly franchise-like (there's a second branch at 436 Court Street in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn), but all the breads and pastries are expertly made in-house. Lard bread has a burnished crust and is shot through with nuggets of browned prosciutto (although the black pepper we like in lard bread is missing). The freshly baked brick oven baguette, "golden crispy" loaf, and the seeded semolina bread are all worth taking home and ripping into. Sandwiches are overpriced--about $10 for a hero. But, in fairness, each sandwich is so enormous that it's really two sandwiches. Our favorite is the broccoli rabe with mozzarella, roasted red peppers and arugula; it's deliciously peppery and garlicky. Skip the olive oil and vinegar topping, which only weighs the hulking thing down. At holiday time, you can buy a homemade struffoli -- a traditional Neapolitan confection made of small balls of fried dough fashioned into a pyramid, shellacked with syrup, and topped with colorful sprinkles and Jordan almonds.