This comfortable Roman trattoria excels at its namesake, cacio e pepe, square homemade spaghetti turned inside a wheel of pecorino cheese, further enhanced with a liberal toss of crushed black peppercorns, a seasoning beloved of Romans since 500 A.D. Other Roman delights include saltimbocca (a sautee of prosciutto and monkfish fillet "married" with a toothpick) and coda alla vaccinara (oxtails braised with tomatoes and celery). Special pastas are often the best choice, so pay attention when your server recites them.
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Saltimbocca is one of the chief delights of Roman cuisine. I'm not talking about the ancient Romanswho sprayed a fermented fish sauce called garam on nearly everythingbut modern Romans. These urbanites have developed a c...