The architectural transformation of this ancient Chelsea diner replaced windows with garage doors, and painted the airy interior more shades of off-white than you ever knew existed. The menu totters between comfort food and nouvelle bistro fare: meatloaf and fried calamari vs. seared yellowfin tuna. Fried chicken sided with waffles hit agreeable soul food notes, but the hamburger was made with too-lean beef, crumbly and lacking flavor. Servings are huge, making it easy to economize by sharing appetizers or entrées.
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