Taking over an off-the-beaten-track Chinatown space from Pearl River, Cantoon Garden excels at traditional Cantonese fare with modern flourishes, and it's every bit as good as Danny Ng. Our favorite dish on a first visit was the vegetarian e-fu noodles with black mushroom (not on the regular menu; grab a copy of the carryout menu at the front door as you enter). A close second was the "lamb w. sauce" in the "Hitachi Style" section, which turned out to be a chafing dish of bean curd skin, scallions, and skin-intact hunks of lamb bubbling in pale brown gravy.
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