This airy and comfortable truck stop wrested the palm from La Hacienda as the foremost Mexican restaurant in El Barrio. The fiery red pozole is the best of its type, heaped with "flowered" hominy and small cubes of pork, served with a fulsome condiments bar and three fried tortillas for crumbling.
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I have seen God in a bowl of pozole. This hearty soup, a weekend special at nearly every taqueria in town, never fails to please. The rich broth is heavy with chunks of pork, fragrant oregano, and hominy slow-cooked until it "flower...