Though the interesting and uneven all-Italian wine list is overpriced, the food at this wine bar is exceptional. Start with the salted and peppered ball of buffalo mozzarella served with strips of sweet roasted pepper and culatello, or the unctuous boiled sausage cotechino, which comes on a high-protein bed of stewed lentils. Pastas are the way to go for your second course, many made by the owner's Apulian mother, Addolorata Marzovilla. Pick the cowry-shaped cavatelli tossed with broccoli rabe, or the mini ricotta-ravioli in a dice of orange squash.
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Wine bars were rare a few years ago, but now loom large on the dining landscape. Restaurateurs love them, because these joints often push overpriced alcohol to the forefront, while treating food as a glum afterthought of pressed san...