The wholesale component of this Southeast Asian grocery in Chelsea Market has shrunk away, so that now the containers of fish sauce, coconut milk, and curry paste occupy only a few shelves along one wall. Meanwhile, the cafe and carryout have become wildly popular among shoppers. The Thai fare is assertively spiced, and we particularly enjoyed the intense red and green curries and the salad of glass noodles and crunchy veggies called gang jud woon sen. The menu also benefits from Malaysian elements, including a wacky take on roti canai that reconfigures the flaky flatbread as a Caribbean-style stuffed roti.
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