A name like China Grill doesn't inspire much confidence in the place's inventiveness, but that's exactly what sets this unexpectedly ritzy Midtown spot apart from most other Asian fusion joints. Most of the food is done in a faux-family style with generous portions, especially for appetizers and desserts. The bright spots of the mains veer mostly toward the strictly Asian, such as the pan seared spicy tuna or miso grilled vegetables and udon noodles served with a mushroom hoisin sauce. The accompaniments are particularly interesting, especially the wasabi mashed potatoes and fried spinach, which is basically an elevated form of the kale chip. It's all presented in a very respectably high-class manner, and the air is definitely consistent with the food. The space is generally hopping, so reservations are suggested. --Shane Barnes
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