No better introduction to Korean dubu (tofu) cookery than the classic soybean meal,which features three bowls: flocculent freshly made curds dotted with black sesame seeds, an intriguing white soybean porridge with the texture of loose library paste, and a fermented soybean soup. In addition to bean curd, this rustic Koreatown restaurant offers stone bowl specialties along the lines of bi bim bap, and a broad selection of the delicate and rubbery pancakes called pa jun. The menu includes all the usual Korean fare, but no grilled-at-your table barbecue.
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