We have two words for you: gutti venkaya. This peanut-sauced dish of baby eggplants, which almost tastes more Amazonian than Indian, is typical of the crazy jags the menu takes you on in its relentless pursuit of unique, often-meat-bearing south Indian fare, and thus constitutes a valuable addition to the mixture of south Asian cooking styles available on Curry Hill. Other recommended dishes include chicken pepper roast (poultry pieces thickly covered with coconut and crushed black peppercorns), and nilgiri lamb kurma (which bathes lamb in an odd mint-and-cilantro gravy). The proprietors are from Sri Lanka, and hence there are a few Ceylonese dishes on the menu, too.
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It's something of a real estate miracle that the Indian neighborhood known as Curry Hill—which runs along Lexington Avenue from 26th to 30th streets—is still intact, and even thriving. Early on, the west side of the stre...