Country Cafe; is the kind of old-fashioned Greenwich Village hideaway that people used to whisper the name of to their friends, and hope that someday it wouldn't be overwhelmed. There are no worries on that account now. It dates to a time when French food was synonymous with romance, and the menu contains a greatest hits list of sturdy French country fare from various regions of France, just as Parisian bistros often do. This includes a well-furnished bouillabaisse (though the rouille on the croutons is flavored with mustard rather than red pepper), rack of lamb, coq-a-vin, and;reflecting immigration to Paris in the 50's;a handful of respectably prepared Moroccan dishes. But the thing we liked best was a wonderful appetizer of polenta and wild mushrooms that could have been an entree.
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