One of the signs outside says Crown Steak House, but there are no steaks on the menu. Walk inside and find a perfectly preserved glatt kosher deli from Brooklyn's remote past, decorated with a giant samovar. The hot sandwiches could be better-the pastrami is heated in the microwave, while the turkey is sliced from a compressed cylinder-though the club roll they're served on is superb. Instead, direct your attention to the wonderful cabbage soup, clogged with shredded veggies in a slightly sweet orange broth dotted with big chunks of beef flanken. A bowl is a complete meal. Other delectable specialties include chopped Israeli salad, meat balls, and beef stew.
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