Choosing to emphasize the Taiwanese debt to Japanese cooking, David's cloaks itself in rustic decor, while offering a plethora of lightly steamed dishes like crab with green squash, served in a light broth, and fermented bean curd topped with red-chile relish. Best of all: ginger chicken in sesame oil, flavored with star anise and Asian basil for a licorice-y double whammy.
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