You can take it for granted that the tacos are superb: a pair of soft corn tortillas wrapped around elemental fillings, simply flavored with raw onions and fresh cilantro. Spoon on the salsa verde! Fillings run to tongue, steamed lamb, pig ear, and sautéed chicken, but king of the tacos is the Azteca, sporting a steamed beef filling slapped with a grilled cactus paddle shaped like a hand. Anything made on the spot from masa dough-including a gordita split and filled with chicharron (crunchy pig skin)-is also to be fervently desired.
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Tired of Manhattan margarita mills with their timid Tex-Mex? When you get a yen for real Mexican, head for Sunset Park, where Fifth Avenue hosts a string of glittering taquerías. Thus Scooter and I found ourselves passing und...