Brazilian restaurant Delicia's walk-down interior is beige and none too well ventilated, with makeshift banquettes lining the walls, but the food is so good that nearly any hardship is worth enduring. Few baked goods in the world attain the ecstatic heights of pao de queijo, the golf-ball-shaped Brazilian cheese bread served piping hot. The cook also makes a fine rendition of shrimp muqueca, a concoction that finds the crustaceans swimming in a heavenly coconut milk and tomato sauce. But the foremost among the meat-bearing entrees is feijoada. In its inky, bean-based depths lurk pork ribs with the meat falling off the bone, intensely smoky ham hocks, and sausages whose fennel flavor strikes an Italian note. Dieters and nutritionists can order shrimp and vegetable renditions of feijoada.