Forgoing the flotilla of free small dishes called pan chan, which you might not have been too fond of anyway, DoSirak offers what it calls "simple good Korean food," and we wouldn't argue with that assessment. The soups are a particularly good deal, running from the unspicy but rib-sticking beef short rib to the searingly spicy pork and kimchi. The crock-seared rice salads known by the musical name bibimbop are often thrust into the wood-burning oven at the rear of the restaurant, a vestige of pizza parlors past.
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