The female chef at this Haitian restaurant makes some of the liveliest French food in town, with a marvelous African twist. Pork gryot is a confit of rich meat that's been soaked in a tart marinade, while bouyon is a thronged beef-and-vegetable soup, a hearty meal that would send any French peasant back, bowl in hand, to plead for more.
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There's not much to be said about the decor at E & R. The boxy walls are smeared an industrial green that is interrupted by crazy red stencils of stars, flowers, and musical eighth notes. Next to a carry-out window, there's a calend...