In case you wondered about the ethnicity of this spruce lunch counter across the street from Maria Hernandez Park, examine the beach-towel map of El Salvador on the wall. While not the very best in town, the pupusas are solid, though you'll never be sure which ones are available on any given day. We picked the one stuffed with cheese and chorizo inside a rice-flour dough, then slit it in the traditional fashion and loaded it down with the pickled slaw condiment called curtido. The cilantro-flavored chicken stew-really more a bird in thick sauce-was also toothsome.
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