Empellon Taqueria

230 W. 4th St.
New York, NY 10014
Critics' Pick
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Empellon Taqueria

Laura Shunk

Empellón Taqueria ("Push") is the brainchild of Alex Stupak, long the pastry chef at Wylie Dufresne's WD-50, the city's premier science chef outpost. His defection into the world of street tacos came as something of a surprise, but the excellence almost makes the high price (two tacos for $12 to $22) worth it. Meats such as tongue, sweetbreads, pork shoulder, lamb barbacoa, and chicken experience long braising, with extra flavors (chiles, olives, raisins) cooked deep into the taco fillings. Added as an afterthought, the conventional main courses are a mess, but there are other gems on the menu, including one sope featuring refried beans and an egg, and another with eggplant and crema. The elegant desserts, too, are worth trying -- not surprising given the chef's background.

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  • Favorite Dishes #92: Empellon Taqueria's Fish Taco
    Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 11:12 a.m. by Karen Tedesco

    Of all the tacos in New York, it's the fish taco at Empellón Taqueria (230 W. 4th Street, 212-367-0999) that tempts our hunger. First, be sure to request the peerless house-made white corn tortillas — it matters. Then get ready; the...


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