You can't beat "costela Bam-Bam," a gigundo beef rib cooked over charcoal, blood red in the middle. Smear on the chile relish and sprinkle with toasty farofa! Named after the shanty-shack slums that surround Cariocan cities, Favela offers a greatest hits of Brazilian cuisine-maybe you won't need to go to Newark's Ironbound anymore. The Bahian standard moqueca is rendered here with admirable fidelity-crammed with seafood, tinged with red dende oil, and sided with a jiggy pudding. You can't beat Favela for bar snacks, either: Pick the sundried beef jerky called carne de sol ("meat of the sun").
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You don't expect much when you see prime rib on a menu. Usually it means an inferior cut of meat being passed off as "prime" grade, even though the designation only refers to the position of the bones on the bovine rib cage. Most of...