Booth seating and bistro-style mirrors make this one of the most commodious Jamaicans in the south Bronx neighborhood of Melrose. Though not cooked in a 60-gallon drum with lump charcoal, the jerk chicken is damn good, smeared with a rich sauce more hot than sweet, owing more than a little to American barbecue sauce. Good too are the fried dumplings and oxtails, and the finely chopped callaloo, all neatly on display as reggae throbs in the background. Best of all is "macaroni pie"--deep dish mac and cheese loaded with good cheese and baked so that it clumps gloriously and turns deep brown and crusty.
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