Finding this obscurely located joint just east of Bowery off Rivington, propelling yourself down an alley that feels like something in a Jack the Ripper movie, and then finding a seat in a thronged dining room hung with stuffed animal heads is the challenge. The modestly inventive food tastes much better than it looks;We're thinking in particular of a gray poached chicken engulfed in carrots and celery;and sets you back less than you'd expect. The lamb sandwich and adult macaroni and cheese also merit commendation, although many of the seasonal dishes seem like bar snacks for the overpriced wines and cocktails.
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You've survived another holiday season. Have you ever had better reason to settle into a dark bar with a stiff drink? I didn't think so. But, as we battle through the next few long john-wearing months, now feels like a good time to ...