This gleaming Jamaican steam table is more ambitious than the usual bare-bones Jamaican lunch counter in Williamsbridge, which is like a suburb of White Plains. The jerked chicken rules-dark or light quarters with a burnished skin and kicky marinade. Hike it up a notch by asking for the jerk sauce-in spite of the dire warnings from the counter dude that the sauce is way hot. Get a couple of fried dumplings to go with it, or, if hungrier, grab a serving of the delectable shrimp and rice. Wash it down with a Tiger Bone tonic.
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