You'd never guess a restaurant in this location-patronized by tender-tongued garmentos and cocktail swillers washing away the workday-would offer great Sichuan food loaded with Sichuan peppercorns. But you've got to dive into the menu labeled "Chef's Signature Dishes," which includes the superb braised beef with chile sauce-thin-sliced brisket and Napa cabbage squirming in a lake of red oil that tastes vaguely like tobacco. Other meritorious selections: double-cooked fresh bacon with capsicum, stir-fried conch, and to cool the burn, light-green loofah with garlic. No, you shouldn't scrub your back with it.
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