This Yemeni restaurant excels at salta, a bubbling cast-iron pot of brown gravy used as a dip for the restaurant's wonderful homemade pitas, nearly a foot in diameter and charred on the edges. Other perfect hearty options include fattah-a porridge of torn pitas-and maloukhiaih, a slimy sauce of jute and lamb that gives okra a run for its money. For the less adventuresome, there are roasts of lamb and chicken served with rice and curried vegetables. Most entrées come with salad and a heady bouillon. Open 24 hours.
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Hadramawt is a narrow wadior valleythat snakes its way through the craggy mountains of Yemen near the Empty Quarter desert. Snuggling the cliffs like a mini-Manhattan, the ancient city of Shibam sprouts eight-story adobe...