Taking large parts of Asia and Europe as its purview, Harchevnya fashions all sorts of dumplings, from thumb-size Siberian pelmeni to ponderous and thick-skinned Uzbeki manti. And all are available to eat in, carry out, or take home frozen.
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When it opened a couple of years ago at 813 Avenue U, spawned by a grocery that sold frozen dumplings, Russian Ravioli was instantly thronged with a hip young crowd pausing for a quick bite on the way to the dance clubs. As I finish...