Yes, it's easy to find cheap sushi in town—at vegetable-stand salad buffets, for example. But would you dare to eat it there? Somehow, when raw fish stands for a while next to gravied tubs of meat, it absorbs odors and shrivels—not that the seafood was any good to begin with. Enter Hong Kong Plaza, a Flushing mall anchored by a gigundo Asian grocery store. Right outside the entrance to that store is a counter, behind which a pair of earnest guys gyrate, mainly making maki, and some are of a rather creative nature. The bulbous rolls range from $3 to $5 apiece, and include edo sushi, inari sushi, and more things—eel, omelet, tofu, salmon, tuna, hijiki, pickled plum—than you can shake a chopstick at.