This Taiwanese fried pork chop joint is closet-sized, spotless and busy but orderly; the hiss of fat pork chops hitting hot oil is constant. Wa Ji's basic plate is pork chop over rice, and it's not only delicious, but also very cheap. The pork chop here is not gobby with fat or as tough as jerky, but is meaty, tender, and ringed with a judicious band of crispy fat. As soon as you open the to-go container, you notice that the fragrance of cinnamon, cloves, and star anise-the meat has been marinated in a five-spice powder before frying. Pick the chop up, and gnaw it down to the bone, where the fatty bits are the best. Next to the rice is a generous mound of stew-like preserved vegetables-in this case, pickled cabbage and greens, mixed with ground pork-which is vinegary, sweet, and pungent.