This is a charmingly old-school Puerto Rican spot, with a Pepto Bismol-pink counter, pink plastic stools and fake pink roses on the tables. The stern older woman behind the counter has a very serious beehive hairdo, and is also very serious about the telenovelas that play on the television in the corner. By the window, there are craggy piles of cuchifrito, the various Puerto Rican soul food snacks-gigantic balls of fried plantain, pasteles and dark links of blood sausage. Order roast pork and the woman behind the counter hauls out a whole piggy leg, and hacks off some meat and crisp skin; it's faintly gamey in a good way. Salt cod fritters are completely wonderful: Hot and crunchy on the outside, gooey with salt cod and herbs on the inside.