Here's the place to sample the celebrated soup dumplings of Shanghai (called "steamed buns" on the menu)-hefty pouches of dough filled with crab or pork in a savory brown gravy. Nip off the top and decant the gravy into your spoon, then eat the dumpling between sips of sauce. Or develop your unique personal strategy. For the adventuresome there's drunken crab, a sort of ceviche of raw Maryland blues marinated in yellow rice wine, with the cerulean of the shell creating a pretty contrast with the electric-orange roe.
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