Johnny's isn't much to look at-an aging pizzeria in one of the city's poorest neighborhoods-but the pizza is worth going miles for. Reflecting the institution's southern Italian heritage, the heart of the menu is the Sicilian slice. The thick, well-browned crust is not made from prefab dough; in fact, you can see the giant churning mixer through the kitchen door. Another great choice is the meatball parmesan hero, made with good bread that gets even crustier as it's warmed in the oven, inundated with molten cheese of superior quality.
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