Although Kambi doesn't reach the noodle heights of Ippudo's gossamer, homemade ramen, it's a very good choice if you'd like to save a few bucks, or don't want to stand in line. The shrimp gyoza are pretty good, but you're here for the ramen, so here's how it goes: You choose a broth (pork, chicken, soy bean or vegetable). Then you choose a flavor (soy sauce, salt, miso and so on). Next you have your choice of chashu. (Pork or chicken. Please choose pork.) And finally, choose your noodle: Thick, thin or wavy, whole wheat or bean ("low calorific"). Your server can suggest which noodle she or he thinks is best. Choose the compulsively slurpable kimchi miso broth. Although there's no kimchi to be seen, the milky beige is flecked with red, and is clearly infused with kimchi's sharp, spicy, garlicky essence. The pork chashu on top is basically a jellyroll of pork belly, tender and completely wonderful.