Though this authentic tonkatsu-ya has branched out in the last couple of years into other corners of the Japanese fried-food demimonde, you're crazy to order anything not made with one of their imported-from-Virginia pork cutlets, either fatty or lean. Save room for the pumpkin custard.
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The original East 47th Street location of Katsuhama occupied the smallest of spaces: a narrow corridor and tiny dining room concealed behind a carry-out sushi bar. A waiter would challenge you at the door with a question that ran so...