King Size - Closed

21 Essex St.
New York, NY 10002
Wedged on a barren block populated mostly by yarmulke shops in Chinatown, this bar is decorated in camouflage fabrics, like an insult even to those who have found it, since it's so hidden to begin with. Another project by the owner of Il Bagatto, the bar is tiny but expectedly smug, carefully displaying its disinterest in all things too hip (or not hip). Though the drink menu's still tentative, it'll eventually feature elaborate fruit cocktails ($8 and up) and four beers on tap, including Hefeweizen and Brooklyn Pale Ale. Bowls of goldfish are scattered on the tables, but for more serious snacking the bar offers the full to-go menu of Il Bagattoaa good solution to the dearth of anything purchasable but bar mitzvah gear surrounding the bar. Try taglioni with seafood ($12) or gnocchi in Gorgonzola ($11) instead of the usual soggy slice of pizza for the subway ride home.


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