Named after a village in mountainous southwestern Puebla, this former grocery specializes in bargain Mexican fare with all sorts of pre-Colombian twists. Sure, there's a chocolatey nut-laced mole poblano poured over chicken or cheese enchiladas, but there are other beguiling moles on the chalkboard menu, including pumpkin-seed mole pipian and a mole verde piquant with tomatillos and green chiles. The regular menu mounts a broad range of corn-based snacks that can serve as vehicles for cheese, meat, or the fiery pink stew of chicken and chipotle chiles called tinga. Pick the picaditas-masa rounds formed with a ridge round the edge.
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Built in 1882, the great Gothic bulk of Most Holy Trinity Catholic Church towers over lower Graham Avenue, which runs south from Grand Street to Woodhull Hospital, about which I have heard it said, "If you have an accident anywhere ...