This weirdly decorated cafe; isn't big enough and the menu isn't conventional enough for it to be called a brasserie, nor does anything on the premises recall Paul Klee. Rather, the culinary outlook should be termed "Science Chef Lite." Some dishes come heaped with foam (pignoli-crusted cod in lemongrass broth) or accessorized with such strange ingredients as freeze-dried corn kernels (Sunday's beguiling special of veal meatloaf in wild mushroom gravy). The food can be brilliant, but it's more often uneven. Best dish: deconstructed salad of romaine, blue cheese, and candied hazelnuts. Best decorative feature: sofa-like banquettes with pull-down armrests.
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