Like a refugee trudging across the Williamsburg Bridge, Brooklyn-style Thai has arrived in the East Village. True to form, this cavernous space;outfitted with banks of abaci and poured-concrete walls and floors to amplify noise;serves a delicious and cheap but sometimes pallid version of Siamese food. The green curry pours as spicy and soupy as it ought to (pick duck), but noodle dishes are too sweet, and sugar pops up as an unwelcome guest in other places too. Thumbs up to the appetizer of giant green mussels; thumbs down to the restaurant's weird invention of "tuna tartar on a crisp tortilla."
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