The name means "happy" in Mandarin, and Kuai Le's emblem is a smiling Buddha. Hand-pulled noodles in the Lanzhou style are the centerpiece of the menu, served in soups with a vast choice of other inclusions that run from oxtail to lamb stomach to roast duck to pork chops. If you can't decide, pick the wonderful "house special," which includes a fried egg plus a half-dozen other ingredients (two kinds of tripe!). But this tiny shop has a co-specialty of peel noodles, like Sheng Wang on Eldridge Street--fettuccine cut from a whirling cylinder of dough with a knife, and used in some of the same soups. The steamed pork dumplings are also dope--and cheap.
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Last week, we did a lot of reporting on restaurants operating in the dark, doing whatever they could to provide light and food to those who needed it. We checked in on our review restaurants, both of which happened to be in blackout...