Toshihiro Uezu is a towering figure on the New York sushi scene, a seafood impresario who surveys the ichthyological world for the freshest and tastiest specimens, then superintends their transformation into modest-sized lozenges streamlined for maximum flavor. Fifteen minutes in his care at Kuruma Zushi is bliss; two hours spells bankruptcy. Expect the fattiest tuna belly you've ever seen.
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The best sushi transcends the sum of its parts, achieving self-evidence by way of pure ingredients and honest process. Whether it's meticulous, traditional edomae-style, or a modernized, experimental take, New Yorkers are fortunate ...