This Clinton Hill boîte, decorated with mud cloth, carvings, and other African art, seeks to bridge the gap between unreconstructed West African fare and the kind of bistro cooking favored by the modern diner. Thus the Senegalese staple lamb mafe has been remade as a seafood stew dotted with shellfish and hunks of salmon; the peanut sauce has been made smoother and creamier than its prototype. Best thing on the menu is a tilapia steamed in a banana leaf, for which the Ivory Coast proprietors have coined the term biekossah. We also loved the chicken gizzards salad and the mussels marinara, both of which had also been ramped up with African flavorings.
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