This would-be margarita mill--where the decor seems to mimic a Cancun watering hole, or maybe the Mexican restaurant in a shopping mall--actually has an estimable pedigree. Its parent is an East Village Mexican of some repute, where the recipes of cookbook author Diana Kennedy are apparently deployed. It's also one of those rare places where the entrees are better than the appetizers. While we deplored the cardboardy gordita, the fish tacos were right on the money, and the side of fresh grilled cactus was the biggest hit of the evening.
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