It's no accident that a former butcher shop is now the city's most beloved Argentine eatery. The proprietors combine an indefatigable love of beef with an insider's knowledge of how to acquire it. The mixed grill is too huge to be negotiated; you're better off cherry-picking the best cuts, including perfect skirt steak, well-grilled short ribs, and some of the loamiest blood sausage around. Homesick for Texas? You'll find the breaded cutlet that bears the restaurant's name is a dead ringer for chicken-fried steak. But bring your own gravy.
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